The short answer

Timber that is darkened, cracked, soft or distorted has been wet for some time. Wet rot and dry rot are both fungal decay, and both depend on water getting to the wood. Find and stop the water first, because without that no repair will last. Because the two need different treatment and dry rot can spread, get a specialist to look at anything beyond a small, obvious patch. A dehumidifier is not a repair for either.

Rung 1: Read the signs (free)

The Property Care Association gives the signs of wet rot as discoloured timber, bleaching or darkening, cracking and softening, distortion and loss of strength, and sometimes visible fungal growth. For dry rot it describes timber that may darken and shrink, developing square cracks, and in still, humid conditions a mass of cotton wool-like growth, sometimes with water droplets on it.

  • Look where timber meets water: window frames and sills, skirting boards by a leak, floor timbers under a bath, joist ends in a damp wall.
  • Look where air barely moves: under floors, behind panelling and in cupboards on outside walls. The Property Care Association says dry rot favours humid, still conditions, often below wooden floors or behind wall and window linings.
  • Do not strip out boards or linings yourself. If the timber looks decayed, photograph it with a date and leave the opening-up to a specialist, since the Property Care Association says it is often needed to find the full extent.

Rung 2: Test gently and find the water (free to cheap)

Press a window sill or skirting gently with a screwdriver tip. Sound wood resists; decayed wood is soft and crumbles. Then ask where the water comes from. The Property Care Association lists leaking pipes, rising damp, penetrating dampness and poor ventilation as common routes to wet rot, and notes that in roofs and sub-floor voids, timber in moist air can take up that moisture so rot can spread widely.

  • Check overflowing or dripping gutters above the timber, cracked render, failed window seals and loose tiles.
  • Check pipes, waste joints and the seal around the bath or shower on the floor above. See our guide to a leaking shower or bath.
  • Check air bricks are clear. See damp under the floor.

Rung 3: Fix the cause, then dry it out (cheap to moderate)

The Property Care Association says dry rot can only grow because the wood that sustains it is wet, and that the water ingress causing the problem must be identified. For small, obvious wet rot, such as a window sill beside a blocked gutter, stopping the leak and letting the timber dry is the first job, and a joiner can replace what has failed. GOV.UK also notes that dealing with the source of water early avoids more expensive repairs later, such as rot treatment.

Rung 4: Bring in a specialist (trades)

If the decay is more than a small patch, or you see cotton wool-like growth, fruiting bodies or square cracking, stop and get a specialist. The Property Care Association says dry rot can move through very small cracks and across masonry, can cause structural collapse, and that opening-up and destructive investigation are often needed to find the full extent. It recommends experienced professionals who can carry out a survey and report, and a search tool to find a registered specialist. Ask for the report in writing, including where the water was coming from.

Rung 5: When mechanical help makes sense

Once the leak is fixed and the timber assessed, any condensation left in an owner-occupied home with a loft is where a Dryzen system helps. It is a loft-mounted dehumidifier with insulated ductwork to the central area or stairway. Each unit covers 150 square metres and extracts 12 litres a day, at about 20 pounds a year in energy, and the target humidity of around 50 to 55 percent can be adjusted in the app. It helps stop the conditions mould needs; it does not remove mould that is already there, repair rot or stop a leak. It needs a loft and is not suitable for rented homes unless the landlord authorises the changes.

Mistakes that make rot worse

  • Painting or filling over soft timber, which hides it and traps moisture.
  • Treating the wood and leaving the leak.
  • Assuming every dark patch is dry rot, or that wet rot is harmless. The two need different treatment, so the Property Care Association stresses telling them apart.
  • Sealing air bricks because the floor feels cold.

In Chatham and the Medway Towns

We have no verified local figures on rot, so we will not quote any. If your home has timber floors, timber windows or original roof timbers, those are places where a small leak can go unnoticed, so the checks above apply. For local pages see Rochester and Gillingham.

Questions we are asked

The Property Care Association describes wet rot as a group of wood-destroying fungi, generally more often encountered, that usually stay where timber is in contact with excess water. It says dry rot can rapidly destroy timbers and building fabrics, spreads across surfaces and through masonry, and needs specialist investigation.

Small, obvious repairs such as fixing a leak and drying a window sill are DIY jobs. The Property Care Association advises a property-level survey by experienced professionals for rot, because the extent of decay is often hidden and the water source has to be found.

No. A dehumidifier does not repair decayed timber or stop a leak. The Property Care Association says the water ingress behind rot must be identified and stopped, and a dehumidifier only helps if condensation is part of the picture.

Related guides

Local help

Sources: Property Care Association: Wet rot; Property Care Association: Dry rot; GOV.UK: Understanding and addressing the health risks of damp and mould in the home

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